KOZHIKODE: The traditional Malabari cuisine, made especially during the Ramadan season for the fast breaking ceremony, no longer remains traditional, as the advent of migrant labourers in large numbers to the State has also affected its taste and flavors. In the wake of less locals coming forward to work in the kitchens of small scale hotels on which a large number depend here, it’s the migrant labourer who steps into the kitchen.

Even much before the Ramadan season especially in Malabar, the training for the migrant chefs in Malabari cuisine started in order to make them prepare the best varieties of dishes. From Chattipathiri to samosa, unnakaya, Irachi pola, Petti pathiri, Killikoodu, kozhiyada, everything is now made by the migrant chefs who came to Kerala from different parts of North India.

Malabar snacks
Malabar snacks

“We hired nearly 10 such chefs for our pop up Ramadan store, who were given training in Malabar cuisine, mainly the snacks, nearly a month ago”, said Aneez Adam, the founder of Adaminde Chayakadda, a popular Ramadan store in Kozhikode. “They have wonderfully exhibited their skills before the food buffs of Kozhikode,” he added.

But for Akhil George, an IT professional in Kozhikode, Malabar cuisine that was popular in some of the well-liked and age-old hotels in Kozhikode no longer has the real taste. “The rich flavours and tang of the cuisine are lacking now. I now prefer to have Malabar snacks from my friend’s house, which has the real taste of the cuisine,” he said.

“In Kozhikode city alone, more than 10,000 migrant labourers works in hotels handling different sections and in order to meet the increasing demands of workers in various sectors, these people are preferred, opined Muhammed Suhail, President of Kerala Hotel and Restaurants Association (KHRA).

Tags: migrant labourers, Malabari cuisine
Location: India, Kerala